Thursday, September 29, 2011

ALL ABOUT LOOKS

     
All About Looks is  Lubbock's only upscale full service interior fabric retail store.  Owned and operated by Nancy (the mother) and her two daughters.  Bobby also works there too as the upholstery guy.     During our visit to their store, we were given a background on how the business got started and overview of fabrics and the different applicas done with them.
     The business started as advice and/or helping friends with redecoration of rooms.  The discussion on this trip was where fabric is heading and new application of materials.  Hide is becoming a popular statement now.  During the visit she showed us a bench that had a hand painted motif leather upholstered seat cushion.  A hide that was on display was a favorite of mine.  It was a short white hair hide with newspaper print intertwined.  Burlap was another item discussed about briefly.  Never put it where exposed skin could come into contact.
     Nancy at one point talked about wall paper.  One wall paper book had textured raised patterns so that when painted dried, there was were toned wall.  Another book had cork, grass cloth, and painted patters.  We learned also from their experiences that a good wallpaper hanger is hard to come by because of it going out.  A new item that just came out is a silk with a patterned etched onto the fabric.  Another new item that they just recently acquired from a convention was a wood product treated to look like wrought iron window treatments.     One of the points mentioned over and over again was how important to do research on items and to surround yourself with people that know specific items.  A unique item in the store was a sample of how a picture could be made into a thing such as a throw blanket.  She had a picture of the Beatles.   For bling she showed a sample board of different nail heads.
  All in all the store is a great place to visit, to get help in decorating, and finding new fabrics that are unique to Lubbock.  Learned that so much more could be done with fabrics nowadays.  New usage is being made out of old things.

Sunday, September 18, 2011

Fiber and Biopolymer Research Institute field trip #2


     

     On the twelfth of September we as a class went on a field trip to the Fiber and Biopolymer Research Institute to review the testing of fiber.  These are the different machines that tested fabrics.  First machine was the Martindale Abrasion Tester.  The next machine tested the dimensional changes of fabrics accelerated.  The machine itself was not in the room but received a handout describing the testing process.  Breaking Force and Elongation of Textiles Fabrics were the next two.  Tearing Strength Elmendorf Method testing machine was next in line to view.  The last machine that we were shown was a Random Tumble Pilling Tester.   This blog is going to focus on the Martindale Abrasion Tester.
     Abrasion resistance of textile fabrics, the wear ability of textiles in other words, is determined by the Martindale Abrasion Tester.  All fabrics can be tested on the machine but when pile depths are greater than .08 inches, difficulties may arise.  The fabric specimen is subjected to a rubbing motion in order to measure the abrasion resistance.
     Two fabrics are used on the abrading table.  A felt fabric and an abrading fabric made up of a plain weave, crossbred, or worsted wool fabric for the abrasion.  The felt is placed first then the abrasion cloth is placed over it.  The pressing weight is then placed on top of the abrasive cloth, and then the clap ring is placed over the weight and locked into place (FBRI handout).  A 38mm diameter swatch of test fabric and a fabric of polyether urethane foam of the same size is cut.  Any fabric below 500 g/m², the polyether urethane must be used as a backing.  The machine is programmable to input a set number of rubs required for each individual testing.  The machine can be manually stopped.  Upon completion of the testing, three options are used to evaluate the fabric.
Option 1: When two or more yarns on a woven fabric has broken, the end point has been
              reached, or on a knitted fabric when a hole appears.
Option 2: When there is a change in shade or appearance that is sufficient to cause a customer
              to complain the testing is complete.   
Option 3: Determine the mass loss as the difference between the masses before and after
              abrasions.  This loss may be expressed as a percentage of the before abrasion mass
              (FBRI handout).     
     We as a class went to the Fiber and Biopolymer Research Institute to review their different testing procedures.  While there were many different testing machines my focus is on the Martindale Abrasion Tester.  The wear ability of textile fabrics is the kind of material tested on this machine.  All fabrics can be tested but pile depths greater than .08 inches will be challenging.  A rubbing motion is subjected to the fabric specimen to get a abrasion resistance measurement.  A felt fabric and an abrading fabric made up of plain weave, crossbred, or worsted wool fabric for the abrasion are used on the abrating table.  A set number of rubs can be programmed or just stopped manually.  Finally there are three options used to evaluate the fabric.


Reference
(1) Handouts given by the Fiber and Biopolymer Research Institute

Monday, September 5, 2011

Horsehair


HORSEHAIR

   Horses are not just for transportation, farming, or sport.  Horsetails of different species can be a fabric option.  Woven horsehair is made into luxury upholstery fabric.  Weaving of horsehair started in the middle of the eighteenth century.  The goal was to reduce the dependency of imported fabrics.  This new fabric option was quickly picked up by the wealthy as a status symbol.
    Horsehair came into fashion during the eighteenth century due to aristocrats wanting to elevate their own elegant interiors.  The hairs themselves cannot be spun but instead are used as filling yarn and woven strand by strand into the fabric.  This filling is woven horizontally and the fabric usually woven on cotton warp.  Because of this constraint, fabric width cannot be wider than tail length.  For white horsehair, the fabric is roughly twenty-three inches and black hair is between twenty-five to twenty-seven inches.  The finished look of horsehair fabric is smooth and lustrous.
     In conclusion, luxury upholstery fabric can include fabric made of woven horsehair.  Aristocrats sought after this fabric in the eighteenth century in order to bolster their wealth status.  Horsehair is used as a filling yarn and woven into the fabric.  Tail length determines the fabric width.   Smooth and lustrous is the quality look of horsehair fabric. 

References
2.)    Yates, Marypaul (2002).  Fabrics: A Guide for Interior Designers and Architects, 41-42.